Include

[Dimarini]

The stumble thing is happening because you are going WOT at too low of an RPM. Try it only after 3000 rpms.

The boost dropping to 14 at redline seems a bit low. Have you done a boost leak test lately?

Below is the AGP faq from this thread:

AGP Wastegate Actuator Instructions - The Be-All End-All


The arm on the WGA flops around, is it broken?
No, there is nothing wrong with the wastegate actuator. It is perfectly normal for the rod to move when not under tension.

Which line do I use to hook up the wastegate actuator?
We recommend using the source on the compressor housing where the green line was connected.

I heard from a friend that you get more horsepower with the blue line and more torque with the green line, is this true?
You need new friends. A pressure source is a pressure source whether or not it comes from the throat of the compressor housing or the outlet of the compressor housing. You do not get any different power output from either source.

I didn't use the bleed when I installed my WGA but my car boosts to 18 and holds 15 at redline, should I install the bleed?
Your choice, it seems as if you're getting the most performance you're going to achieve without the bleed. Personally, I wouldn't change anything.

Why can't my WGA hold 19psi to redline?
Dodge made a turbo that is too small for the engine. You simply cannot get enough air through the turbine to generate "more boost". Even if you welded the wastegate door shut, you will still only get 15-16psi at redline.

Can I hook up the WGA to the stock lines?
Yes. We don't recommend it as the car will eventually learn the higher boost, but it's your car and you can do what you wish with it. If it works for you and you're happy with its performance, I wouldn't change it.

I just hooked up the WGA and now I get a flutter at part throttle, is this normal?
Yes. The WGA allows the turbo to spool up faster and will give a lot of part throttle boost. Sometimes you will get a lot of flutter at part throttle and at low RPM full throttle. This is just a by-product of having a turbo that's way too small for the car. You will learn to drive the car differently.

Do I need to cap the solonoids where I removed the green and black line?
No. No matter what your friend tells you, as long as you remove the lines from the solonoid, there is no need to cap them anywhere.

I installed my WGA, and now I get a Check Engine Light. What do I do now?

If you have stage 0, you will need to remove the red TIP sensor line that goes from the upper intercooler hose to solonoid #1. Completely remove this line from the car and cap the nipple that is left on the upper intercooler hose. If you have stage 1 or 2, you do not need to do this.
NOTE FOR 2005 USERS. You may get a P2074 code with stage 0. The first step is to make certain your vehicle has had the reflash 18-042-04 performed at the dealer. If you have already removed the red line and you have had the reflash completed at the dealer, you may need to purchase stage 1 to rid yourself of all check engine lights for your 05.

I just bought an AGP Wastegate used and it didn't come with a bleed. Is it safe to hook up without one?

Certainly. The bleed is there to help equalize the pressure in the line going to the wastegate and should make for a more smooth boost curve, and holds boost a little longer. If you don't have a bleed, try hooking it up without one. You're not going to hurt anything. If you want one, drill a .045" hole in a fitting and you're good to go.

How do I get rid of PTB (Part Throttle Boost)?

This is one of the drawbacks when upgrading your car with an AGP WGA. Because the turbo is so small, it spools up too quickly is a lot of situations. When you install the WGA, you have more tension holding the wastegate closed longer, which results in higher boost, and holding that boost to redline. PTB occurs because the exhaust energy, created with just a small amount of combustion, speeds the turbine shaft to a point where the compressor creates "boost". This "boost" is unable to make it all the way into the engine because your foot is only opening the throttle plate a little, and the extra "boost" only has one place to go, and that is back to the compressor wheel, causing surge.

This PTB that everyone talks about sounds much worse than it actually is. You will learn to drive your car differently so you don't experience it all that often. The benefits of 15psi at redline definitely outweigh the drawbacks of occasional PTB.

Don't let someone sell you a spring "upgrade" for the wastegate by claiming it's going to hold more boost at redline and eliminate PTB. It will not, or we would sell it.

I can't boost past 10psi, my diaphragm must be torn. Can I get a replacement?

If your diaphragm was torn, you would not be able to control boost at all. Boost would be way too high, not low. You have a boost leak, or multiple boost leaks which is preventing you from running higher boost. Fix them.

What size hose should I use for connecting my WGA?

Since you'll be eliminating a lot of the factory vacuum lines with the installation of the WGA, you can certainly use leftover hose from that. If you wish to use new hose, we recommend 7/32" vacuum hose that can be purchased from your local auto parts store.

I have Turbo Toys from my stage 2 setup. Can I still use DAB?

If you hook the WGA up using the factory vacuum lines, you'll still be able to use Dial A Boost. If you hook the WGA up like our directions state, you will not.

Since I've decided to keep my DAB because I run Turbo Toys, should I still use the bleed that was included?

Although we do not recommend running the wastegate to the factory lines and solonoid, we do understand that people with Turbo Toys want to keep the DAB function. Most likely you will not need to use the air bleed when you connect the wastegate to the stock vacuum lines. You can certainly try it both ways.