Now find the
black connector for the Dial-a-boost selector. Find the gray, purple, black, and short orange wires. Put the short
orange wire in slot #4, the black in #3, purple in #2, and the gray wire in #1 until they click. Then press in the yellow ends to lock the
wires in place.
Find the
white connector for the HOM switch and the white and black wires. Put the black wire in slot #3 and the white wire in #2
until they click. Then press in the yellow ends to lock the wires in place.
Ok now we need to tap into the HVAC illumination signal for the Dial-a-boost switch. First pull the center air duct out. It’s behind where
the vents were. Then find the long orange wire and feed it back into the bezel and up to the HVAC controls. On the left side, above the fan
speed selector, you will see a connector. Slide the red tab back and pull the connector off the HVAC bezel. Find the orange wire in the
connector and strip ¼”- 3/8” of insulation away. Take the long orange wire from the toy’s harness and splice it into this orange wire,
solder in place, then use electrical tape to protect it. Reconnect it to the HVAC bezel.
Now there should be four wires left. These are indicator lights for the sprayer and HOM. Find the male, two-wire connector and the blue LED
that came with the S2 kit. Now find the red/white and yellow/black wires. Put the red/white wire into the connector slot labeled ‘A’ and the
yellow/black wire into the connector slot labeled ‘B’. Find the female. Two wire connector and the red LED that came with the S2 kit. There
should be two wires left, a red/white wire and a yellow/red wire. Put the red/white wire into the slot labeled ‘A’ and the yellow/red wire
into the slot labeled ‘B’. Be sure that you have pushed the wires until they click into the connectors and put the gray retaining clip in
place.
Now find an appropriate location for your indicator lights. They can be on the silver bezel, in the vents (may require a splice and
additional wire) or on the HVAC console. This is where I choose to put mine. Drill a 5/16” pilot hole for each LED holder. Route the leads
to where you need them, pull them through the pilot hole, place the LED holder over the LED until it locks and then push the assembly into
place. I had to do some additional drilling to get the LEDs where I wanted them. Also, you can see where I secured the leads in the back.
Now back to the toys bezel. Hook up the intercooler sprayer switch, dial-a-boost switch, and HOM switch. Reconnect the defrost switch
connector and the power supply connector. Screw it in place on the center console. Put the HVAC shroud back on, screw in place, replace the
vents, and push in the LED assemblies if you haven’t done so already. Done with the center console!
Secure the loose wiring loom under the dash using zip ties. I decided to attach it to the tubing underneath the steering assembly.
Find the blue/white wire on the loom. It should be near the square rubber flap we brought the harness into the cabin through. We’ll need to
get it to the interior fuse block. Now we have to splice it in the ignition power lead. It’s the blue/white wire in the fuse block. Inside
the driver’s side door jam, there is an access panel to a fuse center. Remove the door and the two screws holding the block in place.
With the fuse block out, find the blue/white wire in the #31 slot.
As with the orange wire splice in the HVAC harness, strip ~1/4” –3/8” from the wire.
Splice in the blue/white wire from the toys wiring harness, solder in place, and tape for protection.
Reinstall the fuse block and close the access door. Pull any excess loom out of the doorjamb. Slide the rubber seal until it is firmly in
place against the cabin. Pull the wiring loom from the engine bay side to take up any slack. Mount the S2 fuse holder to the sheet metal
near the hood hinge and reinstall the weather-stripping. Make sure the loom is near the foam by the hood hinge, and re install the window
shroud and wiper assemblies.
Now take the power lead from the loom and connect it to the power distribution plate in the fuse & relay center. Take the black ground lead
and attach it to the black ground right in front of the fuse & relay center. Now place the two relays in the empty space in the relay center
and attach with the Velcro provided in the S2 kit. Close the fuse & relay center cover. Because of the size of the loom, you may need to
modify the opening on the cover to make it fit properly.
Route the loom behind the fuse & relay center, down the side of the fender, behind the driver’s side headlamp. Don’t worry about securing
the loom just yet. You should have loose wiring near the PCM. You are about to splice into the connectors for the PCM. Please note that you
have to be
EXTREMELY careful and take your time with this portion of the install. If you make a mistake, you will have downtime and
several $$ out of your pocket. That being said, get your 1/16” and 3/32” drill bits out, a pin vise or a drill if you have confidence in
your drilling precision.
Take the
BLACK PCM connector and
CAREFULLY cut the electrical tape away from the back of the plastic connector and tip of the
wiring loom. Now we have to take off the cover for the PCM. You will need small and large flathead screwdrivers to take the cover off.
If you break off the retaining tabs, don’t worry the S2 kit has 3 replacements. With the PCM shroud off, you should be able to see the
wiring and a numbering system. We need to drill through the top of the connector in slots 10 and 16 of this connector. Make sure you drill
extremely slow, and right in the middle of the slot. Don’t go past the black plastic. If you’re not 100% on, you risk damaging adjacent
wires. Now if you have done it correctly, you will see white silicone with a pinhole in it. The slot is still obstructed however, Use the
1/16” drill bit and push it through the backside and look at the front. You should see a black plastic pin coming out of the connector.
Remove it. Now pull the red retaining clip on the bottom over to one side. If you don’t, any wires you try to insert will be obstructed, as
this is the wiring lock that holds everything in place. Now we are ready to insert the wiring. Find the green and yellow/black wires. The
green wire goes in the #10 slot and the yellow/black wire goes in the #16 slot. Push them down until you hear them click. Slide the red
wiring lock back into place and put the PCM shroud back on the connector. Use electrical tape and tape around the end of the shroud and
first 1 ½” or so of loom. Then move onto the
ORANGE PCM connector.
Carefully repeat the steps listed above for the shroud removal, wire unlock, and proceed to drill out the #22 slot. Find the gray wire and
insert it here. Lock the wires in place, replace shroud, and tape up. Move on to the
WHITE connector.
Carefully repeat the steps listed above for the shroud removal, wire unlock, and proceed to drill out the #2 and #14 slots. Find the
yellow/red wire and white wire. Put the yellow/red wire in the #2 slot. Put the white wire in the #14 slot. Lock the wires in place, replace
shroud, and tape up.
Now reconnect all the connectors to the PCM and press the red tabs to lock them in place. Make sure they are all firmly in place. Use
electrical tape and zip ties and secure the loom from the PCM to the fuse & relay box making sure to keep it away from the cold air opening
for the airbox.
This is where my install stops. I didn’t install the intercooler sprayer portion of the kit just yet as I may want to run a separate tank
out of the trunk. I just haven’t made up my mind yet. For the meantime, I taped up the connector for the water pump and put the loom in a
zip lock baggie. I tucked it in a hole behind the driver’s side headlamp.
I reinstalled the airbox, cold air pipe, and made sure to put the wiring harnesses back in place (locking push tabs).
S2 pulls like a madman in dial-a-boost 2 and 3. Oh an HOM doesn’t suck either. Now I have to relearn how to drive the car.
Traction issues!
