Quote: Originally Posted by
jasonparson 
Thanks man, you really cleared up all confusion for me. I know I need the e-manage cable, wideband and fuel upgrade. If I went stg 2 injectors or even 750cc's, I would still need the return line kit to control them right, or can the e-manage do that. the return line kit just seems expensive. Seems like you can get injectors for the same price. But what do I know. If I get the fuel system up to par, can i crank the boost up another turn and get away with it then??
No problem. 750cc injectors on stock turbo are overkill. You won't need anything more than S2 injectors. Look at it this way, S2 and S3 are the same injectors. If they handle enough fuel flow for 360 whp from S3 they will handle you stock turbo power output.
Yes the FRL is kind of expensive but you only have to buy it once. it can be used with every fuel setup you come up with after that. The other thing is 650cc and 750cc injectors are rated at a fuel pressure of 43 psi. The stock fuel pressure is 58 psi. Which means that you will flow way too much fuel. Now this is where a FRL comes into play, you can use the adjustable fuel pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure in the system down to what you need and then pull the rest of the fuel out using the piggyback (e-manage, mapclamp, etc...). The FRL is used to do course corrections to the fuel flow, whereas the e-manage, mapclamp, SAFC, DTEC are used to make fine tuned changed to the fuel flow.
I would say that if you are going to try and flow more fuel but are staying stock turbo for awhile, go with S2 injectors. Plug and play, easy install. If you are planning on going with a bigger turbo kit soon, then get the FRL and use that for the time being to flow more fuel through the S1/stock injectors.
As for raising to boost, not until you get a wideband and see how your a/f's look first. The stock PCM and the S1 PCM only have a map sensor good enough for reading 18.25 psi. Now when the computer reads that you are maxing out the map sensor it pulls timing back from you in the form of knock retard. This means even though you gain power from the boost you are running, you lose power from your timing advancement going to crap. It is difficult but you want on stock turbo a good mixture of both. Good TA and good boost. Sometimes it is a compromise though on one side or the other.
My recommendation is to get more fuel and put 20 psi on the turbo. Then with the wideband saying you are running rich, use the mapclamp, e-manage to pull some fuel out until you get to a mid 11's (like 11.4-11.5 a/f). See where your TA and KR is at that time. Then fine tune the fuel to where you are getting as much TA as you can without KR. If you get KR then back the fuel down a bit to where it is slightly richer and that should make it go away.
That is just the basics of it. The real tuners on the board could give you more indepth info on what/how to do it but more than likely you would need to bring it somewhere to get tuned.
Hope that helps.