Im pretty sure it has been discussed in a bunch of forums here =] 'ice mode' is caused by a instantanious substantial difference in wheel speeds. If the ABS cannot correct this with modulation it figures we must be on ice, and starts to attempt to get the wheel speeds to match up. This tends to feel like a loss in braking preasure, pedal going to the floor ABS modulation and slowing at a sub optimal rate. Now the reason why is because if you brake in a turn inside rear lifts, (perhaps only minutely but none the less load has been near zeroed) and if the brakes are applied then the wheel stops. If the wheel stops there is little the car can do to modulate the pressures to the remaining grounded wheels to get wheel speeds to match until contact is restored to the light wheel. Meanwhile the ABS system goes into 'ohsh!t mode' it assumes that the airborne wheel is actually in a skid of some sort and the rest of the car must be on a extremely slippery surface and says to itself we may be on ice, overbraking is bad, so we may be able to save this from a full loss of control/traction/direction by excess modulation of brake pressure (think duty cycle here since the brakes are being modulated). Now this doesnt work well when we are on the conetrack cause there is a lot of time when being on 3 wheels is optimum for traction. SO best thing to do is drive around this issue as steve advises ( since getting a better ABS program is unlikely ) or set the rear of your car a bit softer to keep the wheels more equally loaded on tight trailbraked corners. OR go manual and remove the wheel speed sensor wire. Rear tension struts (yes the mopar ones) help a lot in straight line conditions where the braking areas are bumpy and you are coming in with a lot of speed and may help. I try to make sure I tip out and go to brakes with a slight pause between events (lift.2.3.brakes2.3maintenance.turn.unscrew.tip-in...repeat) you need a moment at high vacuum to replenish the booster. This will likely help.
let me know.
David
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