Power Rear Window Kit
Power Rear Window Install Instructions
First things first, read the entire instructions before installing kit, unless you’ve done it before.
Tools/items Needed:
1.Cordless drill gun (really, really helps).
2.Small phillips bit for the drill gun or a small phillips screwdriver.
3.Regular phillips bit for drill gun(long preferred or use an extension)
4.Wire cutters/strippers.
5.*Needle nose pliers.
6.Electrical tape.
7.3/8 Ratchet with 13mm deep socket and extension.
8. Knife or razor blade.
9.Flathead screwdriver.
10. Some type of small box/can/bowl to put the screws and stuff your removing into.
Installation:
Start out by opening all the doors and clean out anything inside the car except for in the glove box or front door panels.
This includes anything on the floor or in the seats and especially in the center console. Once the first two steps are completed, your ready to get started.
Go to the back doors and pull out the clip in the center of the door handle.
There will be a screw there, remove it.
There is also another screw in the handle of the door itself, remove also.
Using you flathead screwdriver, pop out the clip holding the hand crank on the door.
Remove hand crank and pull door panel off.
There will be two bars that are clipped onto the door.
These are to activate the locks. Remove them from the plastic clip holding it so the door panel becomes free.
Make sure all the white fasteners on the door panel are on it when you pull it off. If they are not, pull the missing ones out of the door and put them back into the door panel.
Do to both doors.
In the kit, you will find two yellow circle stickers.
Place these over the holes in the door where the crank handle used to cover.
Try to center it as much as possible.
Cut the door panel hole to the size shown on the sticker.
Locate crank caps.
There should be a hollow piece and a cap to go over it.
Locate the metal ring clips in one of the plastic bags in the kit.
Place the hollow piece through the hole you just cut in the door panel(this piece should be used as a reference when fine cutting the hole to be near perfect.)
Then put the metal ring clip around it from the visible side to secure the hollow piece to the door panel.
Then go ahead and place the crank cap on the door panel. Do to both doors.
Once the door panels are prepped, go back to your rear doors and peel the plastic away from them from outside in. Leave the far lower inside still stuck to the door(will not need to be removed completely.)
Locate the small crank adapters to go over the window cranks.
Should say (13) on the correct size.
Locate the bigger and longer crank adapter.
Place smaller adapter on the window crank and then the bigger adapter over that.
Pull out the pulley assembly and motors from the kit.
In the bag you took out that had the metal ring clips you will find screws that you will use to mount the assemblies.
There are only enough gold screws for four brackets per door(one bracket comes pre-mounted to the assembly so you can see how they bolt up) which means there are only 8 gold screws total(1 screw per bracket). DO NOT LOOSE ANY PIECES. There are a few pieces that are extras but please be careful.
The motor end should have a bracket already mounted, use this as a guide to mount the rest. It also should have a rubber bushing with a metal center piece in it. Basically, you build your brackets and screw them to the door accordingly.
The motor end should be hidden inside the metal of the door. Make sure the brackets don’t go past where the door panel mounts to the door.
The other end of the assembly will go over the crank adapters that should already be in place.
Use the metal clips on the other side of each screw to secure them in place.
You can twist the assemblies lines over each other ONCE.
Make the red blocks on each line meet. This will give you more maneuverability when you try to install.
Once the motors are mounted and secure grab a really small but longer screw out of that same bag as before. This screw will be drilled in between the first crank adapter and the second crank adapter to hold them together. Do to both doors.
Wiring:
Grab the blue and black wires and run them through the inside of the door to the rubber grommet.
This rubber will pop out of the door but it is clipped along with plastic on the other end.
To remove this clip from the pillar:
pull back the rubber and press the three clips on the sides of it inward to release it.
Grab the small black plastic piece of the floor board on the rear doors and remove.
Then pop up the clips on the one in the front doors.
This will allow you to pop out the pillar(with the front seat belts on it) to grab the wire and pull through as low as possible.
The back seat will pop right out if pulled from the center of each seat. The carpet should easily come up now. You will want to run the wire under the carpet the shortest route to the center console. If done properly, you will not have to lengthen the wires. Do to both doors.
Switch Mounting:
Get in the drivers seat and remove the two screws in the front cup holders.
Then open the center console and remove the four bolts at the very bottom.
You can also remove the four bolts that hold the lid on the center console to allow more room to cut holes for the switches.
With all the bolts removed, pop off shift knob and pull your e-brake up as high as you can.
The center console should be able to be removed.
Once the center console is out, find the card board template and open the bag with the wiring harness and switches.
There are switch holders along with them. Find the template that matches the switch holder.
Once found, tape it to one side of the front(or wherever you wanna mount them) of the center console.
Leave room for the second switch to the side of it and also leave room from the top of the console so the lid can close with no problems later.
Once the template is in place, pop out the center of the cardboard and use a marker or a pen to mark the hole.
Use a razor blade or knife to cut the holes for the switches.
Use the switch holders to see if the holes are a good fit.
Once holes are cut, pop in the switch holders into the center console. (If you have rear switches, cut hole and insert switch holders in the rear now. They need to be at least 1.5 - 2 inches above the carpet. Yet not too close to the top or else they will hit the plastic junk holder that goes back into your center console. The switches can be mounted next to each other or at opposite sides)
Wiring for Switches:
Go back to the drivers seat and lift the steering column up.
Get the phillips screw gun under there and remover the two screws under the steering column.
Remove this piece. Once it’s removed, you will see a wiring harness leading up into the dash.
Cut open the cloth and find the big solid blue wire. This is your ACC. Use your wire strippers to pull back some plastic on the wire. (DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE )
(Note: If you have front and rear switches, the following wiring setup will be slightly different. For 4 switch wiring use the wiring diagram on page 88 of the Spal instruction manual)
Locate your wiring harness. There are two plugs for the switches to connect to. There are three wires. Red=power, Grey=light, and Brown=ground.
I like to ground the brown wire to the rear bolt off the e-brake.
Run the two other wires through to the bottom of the stereo along the other wiring harness.
Pull both wires through till they reach that main wiring harness.
Before connecting anything, you need to cut the red wire at about 1 to 2 feet from the end. *Strip each end of the wire and build the fuse that comes with the kit into that red line.
Then the red wire connects to the blue wire you stripped back earlier in the wiring harness(ACC WIRE).
The grey wire-
can either be spliced in with the red and the blue to give the switch light whenever the key is on,
or it can be spliced into the black w/yellow stripe wire in the wiring harness to light up only when the parking lights have been activated.
*Once the wiring is ran from the switch harnesses you need to run the motor wires (blue and black) into the switch harnesses.
The blue should go to the bottom left corner
black should go to the top right corner.
Make sure you match the right side wiring from the motors to the right side switch and same for the left side.
Once all the wiring is ran and there is power to the switches and a fuse inside the fuse holder you made, turn the key to the on position and press the switch to see if the windows are working properly.
If you hear a pop, you blew the fuse and have the wiring ran wrong. If wiring is wrong go back and find where the mistake is.
If wiring is right, finish up install.
Now you need to put the center console back in. Run all the wiring under the carpet and under the dash cleanly. Make sure no wires are hanging out. Put everything back together and enjoy.
This kit comes with a manual crank handle in case the motors become in-opperable. This kit is long lasting but incase the motors were to go out in 20+ years or so, Spal does carry replacement motors.
*To build the female ends onto each wire for the switch harnesses and the fuse, you must bend back and forth one of the joined female connectors. Once you have one free, place the wire you wish to put a connector onto between where the four arms on the connector are sticking out. Make sure the insulation on the wire is only stripped back about a 1/4 -1/2 an inch. Place the wire so that the bottom set of arms clamp over the insulation on the wire and the other set of arms clamps over the exposed copper wire. This should only have to be done on : red wire to the fuse and from the fuse, and the blue and black motor wires to the switches.
NOTE: If you have two switch kits(front and rear) there is a different way to wire them up. Look in the spal instruction manual for the wiring diagram for a four switch (two front, two rear)
If there are any questions, feel free to contact me and I will walk you through the part of the install that’s holding you up. Thanks.
-Garrett
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