...continued from above
Wiring: There are only 3 wires to install, and no photos, but it's very simple. Connect a red wire from a proper switched +12V source, which is easiest obtained from behind the fuse panel, or from the front of the fuse panel using an Add-A-Circuit. (The fuse panel is on the driver's side of the dashboard, and accessible when the driver's door is open). Connect a black wire to a proper ground source, such as the bolt just behind the fuse panel. Finally connect a green wire to a headlight wire, either directly at the headlight wiring, or from the headlight switch. The green wire is optional, but if unused, it's better to connect it to ground, such as the case on the gauge. On this car, the removeable dash panel makes for very easy routing from the gauge to the fuse panel.
Vacuum hose: If your car is making over about 25psi, it's recommended you replace the stock vacuum hose with a rigid hose.
This is how the gauge will be secured to the pod... use a pair of 6-32 barrel nuts to secure the gauge. This drawing also shows some washers in place, and don't worry about the gap from the slotted holes, since it's really only on one side of the washer -- it just looks larger here. Instead of the barrel nuts, you can use regular 6-32 tee-nuts which are available for $0.99 per pack of 4 pcs from Home Depot. Any regular hardware store should have these...
In the front left of this photo is the tee nut with the prongs as you would purchase it. On the front right is the tee nut with the prongs removed (just bend them the other way with pliers and they'll break off). BTW, the other nuts in the background are a hex standoff and how it was modified to be a home-made barrel nut.
The upper nut in this photo shows the tee-nut. The lower is the home-made barrel nut.
Mount the gauge and pod back into the dash cover...
Connect the wires to the gauge. Using all 3 of your hands really makes this easy.
Then position the dash cover back in place...
All done!!!
