Step 19: Now you need to Remove the bolt that hold the motor mount itself in place. There are 4 13mm bolts. With the motor in its natural position remove the bottom 2 bolts of the mount. Then jack the motor up as far as it will go. (take care not to break anything when jacking up the motor. Make sure you do it slowly.) Once the motor is jacked up remove the top two bolts on the motor mount. Once the mount is free to rotate. Rotate it to where the lowest part of the mount is closest to you. It will be the area that is almost flush with the body itself. This is to help ease the removable of the front mounting bracket. You'll see in the image.
Step 20: Once you have the mount in position, its time to remove the front mounting bracket. This part is somewhat of a bitch, so just have patience. It will come out of there. There are 3 15mm bolts that hold it onto the motor. Remove the top one completely. loosen the bottom 2 completely but dont not worry about removing them. There is no way you can without removing the bracket. Not enough clearance between the fender and the bracket. Once you get the bracket loose from the engine now you have to fight. You want to lift it up yet outwards towards the front of the car to get it out. Once you get the front two bolt holes past the timing belt then getting the back one free will be easier. If you crack the back portion of the timing cover thats ok. It wont hurt anything. Just take care not to damage the idler pulley or water pump pulley. You may have to rotate the mount itself around a little to clear it. If you start getting frustrated walk away for a little bit then come back when your calm.
Step 21. Once the Mounting bracket it out, Rotate the crank clockwise to where your timing marks on the gears line up. and the crank is at TDC. There is a little arrow on the crank pulley. Make sure it lines up with the little arrow on the block itself. This is VERY critical and if not done correctly you could fubar the rest of the install. The marks are highlighted in red.
Step: 22: Before removing the timing belt. Loosen the 18mm bolts on the cam gears. Its important you do this before removing the belt so that way you wont turn the cam shaft by itself. Doing so could result in having valve to valve contact and will damage the valves. It easier if you have an impact gun. If not you may have to hold the crank bolt so that the crank doesn't turn instead of loosening the cam bolt. Once loosened make sure you are still line up correctly on your timing marks.
Step 23: You can now remove the timing belt. Take a 13mm wrench and loosen the lock bolt on the tensioner. Then rotate the tensioner plate clockwise to where it is now facing downward. Then remove the timing belt.
Step 24. With the timing belt removed, remove the cam gears from the cam shafts.
Step 25: Now remove the cam shafts. Loosen the cam bearing caps one at a time. but dont remove any from the head untill they are all loose. Once all the caps are loose remove them one at a time taking care NOT to mess up their orientation and order. doing so can result in premature bearing wear on the cam bearing caps and result in a noise and excess metal going through the motor. Set them on a piece of cardboard in the exact order/orientation the came out in. Once they are removed remove the cam shafts themselves.
Now you should have a bare head: Make sure none of the rocker arms fell out of position
Step 26: Now transfer the cam seals and intake cam magnet from your stock cams to the 2.0l cams/Aftermarket Cams.
Step 27: Clean up the head surface with a razor blade. Remove all excess RTV/red sealant from the cam bearing caps and head. Once clean put some black rtv on the 2 cam bearing caps that had the 10mm bolts in it. Anaerobic sealer (the red clear stuff) is the factory sealer and is he best to use. However, using RTV SPARINGLY will get the job done, but it has to be a VERY thin coat of rtv. Otherwise you will affect your cam journal clearances and possibly block oil passages. You can get the Anaerobic stuff from Mopar and is the same stuff that comes with the LSD install kit.
Step 28: Lube up the camshafts with oil on the lobes and bearing surfaces then set the new cams in place. For 2.0l Cams make sure the holes in between the number one cylinder cam lobes and the number 2 cylinder cam lobs are facing up. For aftermarket cams make sure your dowel pins are both facing up or down. Then install the bearing caps. Start from the middle bearing caps on the cams and work your way out untill the cam shaft is fully seated. Do not tighten them as you go. Just seat them down fully. Once the cam is fully seated THEN go back and torque each bolt. For the 8mm bolts torque them to 105 in/lbs. For the 10mm bolts. Toque them to 250 In/lbs
Step 29: Now that your cams are installed, install your cam gears. Make sure your adjustable gears are set to 0 then just snug the bolts down dont try to torque them. TAKE EXTRA CARE NOT TO TURN THE CAMSHAFT! Turning the camshaft one at a time can result in damage to the valves due to valve to valve contact. I cant stress this enough. You can turn the cam slightly for aligning your timing marks but DO NOT make a half to full revolution on the camshaft.
Step 30: Once your timing marks are lined up on the gears. Make sure the crank is still at TDC. If it is then install the timing belt. Once the timing belt is installed Tighten the tensioner. Take a 1/4 inch ratchet and install it in the square hole on the tensioner plate. Turn it to where the timing belt is the tightest and then tighten down the lock bolt on the tensioner. If all goes well you should be perfectly in time. If your timing marks all line up then rotate the crank shaft 2 times clockwise to seat the timing belt and tensioner. Recheck timing after the second turn.
Step 31: Before reinstalling the mounting braket. Take care to remember to grind down the flate area on the back side of it. There is a lip just below the upper area of it where the upper torque arm would mount. That lip is what needs to be dround down a little further. Forgetting to do so will result in the adjustment bolts on the fidanza gears to rub against it.
If all goes well, you should now be ready to reinstall everything. Just reverse the order in which you took everything off and you should be good to go. When installing the crank pulley. You will need to center it up on the crank. Then tap it down with a hammer. Once you are more than half way down then run the crank pulley bolt in to pull the pulley the rest of the way down.
When installing the valve cover. Put dabs of RTV in these six locations
Once you are completely back together Start your motor. If everything was done correctly and your gears are set for 0. Your idle vacuum should be at 20. (May not be the case with aftermarket cams depending on how big you went) If your vacuum is less than 20 and you arn't running a large cam then your cam timing is off by one tooth. Anything more than one tooth and the car wont start (assuming the timing is off in the orientation of the intake came and crank). Once you have verified the car starts and runs and your vacuum is ok. Then you can start adjusting cam timing. It is best to do it on a dyno though. Never go more than one degree increments each time you adjust them.
I hope this helps everyone.
Bryan
