Topic: 2.0l Cam install/General cam install
Difficulty: Moderate to hard
Amount of Time: Set aside at least 8 to 10 hours, a weekend is better as to prevent the possibility of rushing the job and screwing something up.
NOTE: Critical engine area is going to be modified. Extreme care if to be used when doing this install.This tutorial is under the impression that the installer has some basic mechanical skill/knowledge.
All right, i have seen many people state an interest in the 2.0l cam install and the same questions pop-up over and over again. Im doing this how to to help cut down on redundant questions and as a guide for when installing the cams.
Lets start with the common questions:
Q: What cam gears do i need:
A: You need to purchase the 2.4l cam gears. Just because you are installing 2.0l cams doesn't mean you need 2.0l gears. As a matter of fact the stocks gears are the same for the 2.0l and 2.4l engines. Just flipped over. AKA one side is 2.4l the other is 2.0l It has to do with the offset of the mounting area of the gear. Much like a rim for your car. If you were to put a 2.0l gear on a 2.4l motor the offset would be too deep and the gear would rub the timing cover behind it.
Q: Can i run the stock gears.
A: Yes you can, but you wont get the maximum power out of the cams. As a matter of fact you may even loose power without tuning the cams. If your going to do the job might as well do it right and get the gears. Atleast this way if you upgrade cams to a larger set then you wont have to buy gears then.
Q: What is the best setting for the cams.
A: This is hard to say. There is too many differences to set a base line setting. The best way is to tune the cams on a dyno to maximize power. Otherwise you are tuning blind and could actually be hurting yourself.
Q: Will these cams cause the motor to lope.
A: Yes they will, if tuned right. But remember just because it lopes doesn't mean you are going to be making alot of power. All your doing is increasing valve overlap. Which in a sense could hurt you more on a turbo car then help.
Ok, now that thats out of the way. Lets get onto the install.
Tools needed: A set of metric sockets 8mm-19mm (shallow and deep well), A 1/2 inch t55 torx bit socket. 1/2 inch impact and 3/8's drive impact(not necessarily needed but makes the install easier), 8mm-19mm wrench's (ratcheting helps but not necessary), 1/4 inch ratchet. In/Lb toque wrench (able to reach 250 in/lbs) 3/8 drive ratchet, 1/2inch drive ratchet, 3 jaw crank pulley puller w/ inserts) 3/4 inch deep well socket. 7/8 's deep well socket(if your using the puller i am), Angle Grinder/dremmel with a grinding disk/bit, Jack w/ Jack Stands, a 1 ft piece of 2x4, 25mm torx bit socket. Alot of these are your basic tool's that can be bought at sears. Like a craftsman kit.
Parts needed: New valve Cover gasket w/sparkplug tube seals, timing belt (optional, really depends on the mileage your at 50k and below your fine but your call). 2.0l Cams(or what ever cam you choose to install), 2.4l adjustable cam gears(needed to maximize power gain of the cams) Rtv - Black (I used Mopar Atf Rtv works great)
Note: Some of these images will be different than your car. I already had the gears installed along with a 2.0l exhaust cam. I'm going back to do the intake cam this time as well.
Remember take your time with this. Don't rush this job or you will be hating yourself. I cant stress that enough.
Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery cable
Step 2: remove your intake(cold air or stock)
Step 3: Next remove your coil pack and plug wires.
Step 4: Disconnect you injector wires and pcv line. (you do not have to remove the fuel rail or fuel feed line) When done it you should look like this:
Step 5: Remove your valve cover. there are 9 bolts total that hold it down. Just lift up and slide to the driver side to take out.
Step 6: Remove the upper torque arm and mounting bracket. Along with the mounting block on the motor as well. There are 2 18mm bolts that hold the actual braket in place. One is a bolt and the other is a nut. Take those out along with the toque arm itself. Do not disconnect the main portion of the mount from the mounting block on the motor. remove it all as an assembly.
Bolts/areas highlighted in red. 
Step 7: Disconnect your temp sensor connector just below the thermostat housing.
Step 8: Loosen the 15mm bolt on the alternator. Also back off the 13mm nut so that the alternator can pivot and relieve belt tension. The alternator wont move until the lower pivot bolt is loosen. That will come later.
Step 9: Remove Coolant overflow hose and set it out of the way.
Step 10: Remove upper timing cover. There are 3 bolts in total that hold it in place. The are 8mm. Set the timing cover aside.
At this point your engine bay should look like this:
Step 11: Jack up your car and remove the passenger side tire. Be sure to use jack stand for safety and because you will need your jack later on to support the motor.
Step 12: Now remove the cross member support, and slash shield. There are 4 10mm bolts and 2 push pins that hold the shield in place. Once you get the bolts out just push back on the shield(towards driver side close to where i marked) to release the push pins. When remove the cross member support remove the 2 15mm's. And the 18mm long stud/bolt below the lower 15mm. Not the location of the washer.
The engine will move because you now have release all torque struts. Don't be alarmed the motor wont drop. 
Step 13: Now remove the lower toque strut completely. Then loosen the 15mm pivot bolt on the lower portion of the alternator. Remove the Serp. Belt via releasing the tensioner by pulling towards the fire wall with a 15mm wrench on the tensioner bolt. Once all belts are removed. Remove the 19mm bolt on the crank pulley.
Step 14: Take your 3 jaw puller and medium extension and insert the extension into the hole where the crank pulley bolt came from. Insert the 3 jaw puller onto the pulley making sure each jaw of the puller is inside the pulley and seated flatly to the pulley surface. If you are not careful you can shred the pulley itself and possibly damage the crank. See images below
Step 15: Remove the lower timing cover. There are 2 or 3 8mm bolts that hold it on. Once that is removed reinstall the 19mm crank pulley bolt to the crank. Do not reinstall the pulley just the bolt. You will need the bolt installed to turn the crank to set TDC.
Step 16: Now its time to remove the power steering pulley. There are 2 ways you can do this. Either A: Remove the intake manifold (the Long way). B: Cheat and squeeze around it. There are 3 bolts that hold it in place. You do not have to remove it from the car completely just remove the 3 mounting bolts and get it out of the way. This can be done from below the car without removing the intake. You will need a 13mm socket with a swivel head/universal joint, and a really long extension or multiple extensions. Remove the highlighted bolts and move the power steering pump out of the way.
Note: Be sure to notice the pulley alignment It needs to be aligned correctly on reinstalling it or else you will have a belt squeak when the car warms up One of the three bolts is hidden in the pic. I highlighted the general area it should be in.
Step 17: Now you need to put a jack under the motor. using the 1ft 2x4 Put it on top of the jack surface (as not to damage the oil pan). And jack the motor up. Make sure the piece of 2x4 goes long ways across the whole bottom of the oil pan so as to potentially crack is from stress.
Step 18: once the motor is supported You need to remove the main motor mount bolt. You can access the bolt through the fender well by removing the cover with a small screw driver. Then take a 55mm torx bit socket and remove the motor mount bolt. Depending on how much tension you put on the motor the motor might drop a little. As long as it is supported it wont hit the ground.
