Find a location where you want to install your switch. This should be done before and while you're measuring the cables. You may have to remove the bumper to see where all of the support beams are and also so that you don't short out the connections on the back of the switch after it's installed. Leave enough room for the switch connections so that when the bumper is on, nothing touches.
This is where we found to be the best location for the switch. It worked out good but hindsight said we should've mounted it elsewhere so that the width of the body of the switch could be accounted for. It still works great but aesthetically could be better. Once you drill your hole, that's where you'll be mounting your switch so plan it out carefully.
Here you'll see where the wire came from under the car, was routed on the support beam, looped around to one side of the switch, and then with another precut cable, would lead into the car through the air vent on the side of the vehicle.
Here, you see to the lower left, the incoming wire in the split loom as it loops around to the farside of the switch, with the red wire on the other side of the switch leading into the car through the vents.
This is it for the first part of the install, see the second thread for more.
Page two of the article.
We're finally coming to the good stuff.
With some ABS plastic sheet that we had, we installed both the positive post and negative post with the charge circuit fuse on one plate. We also arranged the posts as if it was the battery in the engine compartment for ease of installation and wiring.
Here is the plate already mounted to the original bracket that housed the battery tray. We used sheet metal screws to hold down the tray and were stainless. We tried to use as much stainless as possible so that the looks of the install would be good for the life of the car.
A closer look at the plate install. You'll notice that we only needed two screws to mount this plate. With all that we did with this installation, never had a problem with just two screws holding down the plate, even when full torqueing the studs with cables attached.
One thing we did have and needed for this install was a professional crimp tool that could do anything from 6 gauge to 6/0 cable. It cost me 80 bucks and was well worth the expense with this install. We're not saying you have to buy one but if you have one available, it'll keep you from having to break from your work to have some cables crimped.
Here you see us having to custom cut a cable and add an end with the crimp tool.
The finished product after the crimp. Make sure that you thoroughly tape the connection to seal it from any moisture and future corrosion issues.
To the right or right post are our negative connections.
The connection going to the right is going to the original ground that the factory used only we drilled out the hole, sanded down to the metal, and used a stainless nut/ bolt to fasten it to the fender.
The ground connection going to the left is going to the tranny utilizing the factory 3/8 hole that just begged us to use it there. You'll see that connection in the picture below. Both of these connections were precut and used 2/0 wire. Even though the picture doesn't show it (due to a late decision), we added a third connection using 2/0 cable (very short cable and again, precut and measured) going to the actual frame. Again, we used a 3/8 nub/ bolt to fasten it down.
The other grounds you see are ground straps going to the fender, and coil pack.
In the center, you'll see the fuse holder with the 4 gauge wire that leads to the trunk already hooked up to the fuse block.
To the left or positive post, you'll see all of our hot or + cabling.
The one heading left is going to the starter and was an original cable that we upgraded awhile back with some 4 gauge going directly to the starter.
The cable leading to the back of the car or straight up, is the main cable that goes to the trunk.
The little cable you see under the main cable is going to the water injection system and fit fine with no modifications needed to make it fit.
Keep in mind too that awhile back, we added a complete ground strap system to the car for better electrical flow. I'd advise anyone that's doing this that you should do the same.
Here you see the ground cable coming from the ground post on the plate on the tranny. The tranny had a 3/8 hole which we used to do this.
Also, there was a ground wire we added using 4 gauge that connected the tranny to the head of the engine. This again was a cable that we installed awhile back for overall better grounding.
Ok, back to the back of the car.
Here, you'll see the cable coming from the batter switch through the vent of the car along with the 4 gauge wire that was originally used to power up his sub. Since this 4 gauge wire was a bit short, we needed to lengthen it abit.
There are no butt connectors big enough and to maintain the best connection, opted for using two 3/8's terminals, crimped onto the ends, and used a nut/ bolt to tie the together and heavily taped. Some call this a monkey ball and would be the best way to do something as heavy as 4 gauge or bigger.
