Include

[Z1500]

This list is put in order of what will give you the best bang for your buck performance.

Step One-$160
Waste Gate Actuator (WGA)-
This is the best bang for your buck part you can put on your SRT4. Your stock WGA has a very weak spring in it and allows boost to fall to 11psi by redline. The AGP WGA is adjustable and allows you to hold 15+psi to redline. This part will no longer be used once you get to step six, so don't get it if you are jumping to step 6.
You may also want to get a set of solid motor mounts right off the bat, they don't make any power but do help with wheel hop and help save your axles.

Step Two-$76.50
Boost Controller-
You will want to get a boost controller of some kind so you can make fine adjustments to your boost settings. We really like the Turbo XS manual boost controller. It's precise, well made and good looking. You may want to get an electronic unit because it can be adjusted from inside the car while driving, but the manual units are much cheaper and more reliable.

Step Three-$225
Cold Air Intake (CAI)-
We make a great full 3" mandrel bent CAI. It comes powder coated in different colors, and includes a high flow filter and bracket for your solenoids. This unit is good for about 10whp and replaces the restrictive stock intake pipe. This unit is 3" all the way to the turbo so it will work with our t3/t4 turbo upgrade later on.

Step Four-$150
External Blow Off Valve (BOV)-
You can run more boost without it leaking with a good external BOV. We like the Turbo XS BOV's cause they are adjustable, well made and will vent the hot compressed air to atmosphere. We include in our BOV kits a plate to block off the factory BOV. Once you have these mods you can run up to 16psi to redline and be running low 13's at 108mph.

Step Five-$825
3" Exhaust System-
The stock exhaust is 2.25" and at these boost levels is beginning to hold back some power. The B&B turbo back 3" stainless exhaust system is by far the best on the market. This will make another 10+whp and will bolt directy to our t3/t4 turbo upgrade later. We do not recommend you buy anything that replaces the o2 housing with a one piece downpipe as this will limit you in future upgradeability.

Step Six-$1750
AGP t3/t4 Turbo Kit-
At this point your car is ready to get the AGP t3/t4 turbo upgrade. You can bolt it on with or without the AGP complete fuel system, but without it you can only run about 12psi. We have dyno'd 270+whp at 12psi with no fuel system mods, so it's a good place to start.

Step Seven-$940
AGP Fuel Kit-
This goes hand in hand with the turbo kit to fuel the additional air that the larger turbo is injecting. It is a complete kit with all the fuel system components you will ever need. It includes and fuel control computer, pump, injectors, and tach signal generator to make the fuel computer work right. Once you have all of these parts you can run 18 psi on pump gas and you'll be in the 350whp range.

Step Eight-$699
Intercooler upgrade-
You can skip steps 6+7 and run this upgrade with your stock turbo to get the most out of it. But once you have the t3/t4 turbo upgrade and are running higher boost you will really need it. This will allow you to safely run higher boost without detonation. At this point with good tunning and if you selected the right turbo with your kit, you can be running over 400whp on pump gas every day.