Dodge SRT Forum banner

Bottleneck fix w/ pictures

72K views 66 replies 34 participants last post by  kprah23 
#1 · (Edited)
I’ve been asked a lot for help on performing the bottleneck fix and setup a canister for a return line. I recently got a canister from someone that already had the bottleneck fix done and a bulkhead for a return line. The problem was the return didn’t go to the canister and the feed line wasn’t long enough for the pump to seat. Since they sent me their stock canister I decided to redo the entire setup so it was done properly. I decided to take pictures as I did it so maybe some others can benefit.

Here we have the stock canister.


The first step is to unplug the pump and fuel level sensor. Below is a shot of the plug. Next you’ll need to remove the wires.


To remove the wires, flip the plug over and push the green locking part out the front. You can see it just in front of the screwdriver below.


Push the locking part up to unlock it, and it will look like this.


With the locking part removed, you can see the connectors on the wires and the tabs that hold the in place.


Now would be a good time to mark the positive and negative wires on the connector for them pump. The wires for the fuel level sensor don’t matter.


Using a screwdriver, GENTLY pry up on the tab. While doing so, pull the wire out the back of the connector.


With all four wires out of the connector you can now remove the fuel level sensor. Use a screwdriver and pry the canister where it is holding the level sensor in.


Next let’s remove the canister. There are three tabs that lock this in place. You’ll want to be very careful here so you don’t crack the canister. I use a screwdriver and push it under the canister and gently pull the canister down. Do this on all three tabs. Be patient, you may pop one back on as you try the next one. You’ll eventually get it. This is the order I do it in.






You have now exposed the fuel pump. In the image below you can see the bottleneck. It is where the piece off the pump goes into the silver ring.


To get the pump out, push the rubber seal in the image below up from the bottom and pull it off the wires. Then pull the pump out.


Here is a view of the top of the canister. You can remove the black rubber part and discard it, we won’t be using it.


Now you’ll need to remove the metal ring. I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the side and bottom of the metal ring. Below you can see the ring and seal. Throw those away, we won’t be using them.


Next step is to create a hole for the feed line to pass through. I use a Dremel for this, but a drill will work. Be careful though, the plastic can be very brittle and crack easily. Below is where I started the hole.


Now that you’ve got the hole started, it is time to split the top of the canister off the part that goes in the hole on the fuel tank. This is a two-step process. First you need to compress the spring and lift plastic washer. Using a needle-nose pliers pull that washer out. It is split on the other side of the flat tab, so it will come off with a bit of force.


Now flip the top over and stick a screwdriver into the hole and pull towards the middle of the canister top. While doing so rotate the top down to disconnect the two parts.


Here is the result of the previous step. Now all you have to do is pull the canister top back and out.


Now cut a bit of the part of the feed off to make sure it won’t poke through the hole and hit your fuel line.


Here you can see the line going through the canister top. Make a note of this or draw around it with a marker because the next step is to drill for the bulkhead fitting.


Here is the bulkhead installed with a stat-o-seal. As you can see I had to remove some of the material to make room for the stat-o-seal.


Here is the top with the bulkhead and stat-o-seal.


Here you can see where I installed the bulkhead for the return line. Putting it here will allow for a straight shot through the top of the canister. No looping is necessary. Notice I had to remove some support material to make room for the stat-o-seal and bulkhead nut.


Top view of the feed and return bulkheads.


Both holes of the canister top.


Here is a view of the lines installed from the bottom of the canister top. The feed hose should extend down about 2.25 inches from the canister’s top. More on this later.


Now it is time to remove the bottleneck from the pump. There are two locking tabs on there, pry them up with a screwdriver and pull the piece off.


Now you need to remove the part that holds the bottleneck on. It is split so just insert a screwdriver and twist.


Here is the pump completely disassembled.
 
See less See more
30
#41 ·
return dumps into the canister

yes an external fpr is needed (your plugging/bypassing the factory one), some like return lines but i'm going with the corvette fuel filter..

i ran out of fuel on e85 @ 400hp/450tq, and i'm trying to reach the magic 500
 
  • Like
Reactions: duster360
#42 ·
You don't have to return the fuel into the canister, but it is highly recommended, especially if you're looking for a lot of power.

Yes, you'll need to add an external fuel filter. I've seen the light, get one of the big ones, not the small Russell type fuel filters. I have the Fuelab 6 micron fiberglass setup, which Injector Dynamics recommended.
 
#45 ·
If I understand your question correctly I believe the answer is - Since the bottle neck fix removes the pressure regulator in the tank you cannot perform this mod without a return line and external pressure regulator. The only 'filter' in the stock system is that pad looking thing attached to the bottom of the pump. Most people performing this mod are doing so because of fuel requirements for more power. So why take the chance not having a good filter and clogging up an injector or 2 thereby damaging the engine.
 
#52 · (Edited)
#53 ·
The forum won't let me edit the original, so here it is again.
Here we have the stock canister.


The first step is to unplug the pump and fuel level sensor. Below is a shot of the plug. Next you’ll need to remove the wires.


To remove the wires, flip the plug over and push the green locking part out the front. You can see it just in front of the screwdriver below.


Push the locking part up to unlock it, and it will look like this.


With the locking part removed, you can see the connectors on the wires and the tabs that hold the in place.


Now would be a good time to mark the positive and negative wires on the connector for them pump. The wires for the fuel level sensor don’t matter.


Using a screwdriver, GENTLY pry up on the tab. While doing so, pull the wire out the back of the connector.


With all four wires out of the connector you can now remove the fuel level sensor. Use a screwdriver and pry the canister where it is holding the level sensor in.


Next let’s remove the canister. There are three tabs that lock this in place. You’ll want to be very careful here so you don’t crack the canister. I use a screwdriver and push it under the canister and gently pull the canister down. Do this on all three tabs. Be patient, you may pop one back on as you try the next one. You’ll eventually get it. This is the order I do it in.






You have now exposed the fuel pump. In the image below you can see the bottleneck. It is where the piece off the pump goes into the silver ring.


To get the pump out, push the rubber seal in the image below up from the bottom and pull it off the wires. Then pull the pump out.


Here is a view of the top of the canister. You can remove the black rubber part and discard it, we won’t be using it.


Now you’ll need to remove the metal ring. I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the side and bottom of the metal ring. Below you can see the ring and seal. Throw those away, we won’t be using them.


Next step is to create a hole for the feed line to pass through. I use a Dremel for this, but a drill will work. Be careful though, the plastic can be very brittle and crack easily. Below is where I started the hole.


Now that you’ve got the hole started, it is time to split the top of the canister off the part that goes in the hole on the fuel tank. This is a two-step process. First you need to compress the spring and lift plastic washer. Using a needle-nose pliers pull that washer out. It is split on the other side of the flat tab, so it will come off with a bit of force.


Now flip the top over and stick a screwdriver into the hole and pull towards the middle of the canister top. While doing so rotate the top down to disconnect the two parts.


Here is the result of the previous step. Now all you have to do is pull the canister top back and out.


Now cut a bit of the part of the feed off to make sure it won’t poke through the hole and hit your fuel line.


Here you can see the line going through the canister top. Make a note of this or draw around it with a marker because the next step is to drill for the bulkhead fitting.


Here is the bulkhead installed with a stat-o-seal. As you can see I had to remove some of the material to make room for the stat-o-seal.


Here is the top with the bulkhead and stat-o-seal.


Here you can see where I installed the bulkhead for the return line. Putting it here will allow for a straight shot through the top of the canister. No looping is necessary. Notice I had to remove some support material to make room for the stat-o-seal and bulkhead nut.


Top view of the feed and return bulkheads.


Both holes of the canister top.


Here is a view of the lines installed from the bottom of the canister top. The feed hose should extend down about 2.25 inches from the canister’s top. More on this later.


Now it is time to remove the bottleneck from the pump. There are two locking tabs on there, pry them up with a screwdriver and pull the piece off.


Now you need to remove the part that holds the bottleneck on. It is split so just insert a screwdriver and twist.


Here is the pump completely disassembled.
 
#54 ·
Here are two different types of clamps, use the type on the right, NOT the worm gear style. These are called "fuel injection clamps". Most any parts store will have them, or you can get the Summit, Jegs, etc.


Now it is time to remove the sock from the canister. There are two locking tabs, one on each side. Carefully pry them up and remove the sock.


Now put your pump on and test fit. Make sure that the pump seats in the bottom of the canister. If it is too hard, remove the pump and cut a small amount off the feed line and try again. You want to be absolutely sure your pump seats all the way in the bottom of the canister. The proper seat is shown below. Normally there is an X in the opening, but the one I got here was broken.


In this image I am showing a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe that I've cut to length and slid over the fuel line. This will help to keep the pump in place. I take a dremel and grind from the inside of the pipe at both ends to make sure it is smooth and will not cut the hose as I slide it on. The copper pipe is not necessary, but it assures the pump will not move and doing it this way you don't have to drill holes and deal with zip ties.


Now it is time to seal off the fuel pump unit. This shot shows the feed and return ports. The feed is the circle in the middle and the return is the rectangle on the left. You’ll need to make sure to seal both of these.


There are several ways to do this, I prefer to use a plastic welder and weld them closed. Other people use freeze plugs, or some other type of sealant. I have a cut off fuel tank that I then install pump unit into and test for leaks by filling the tank with water and making sure no leaks are present.


Now just put everything back together and hook your lines up. If you have any questions just let me know.
 
#56 · (Edited)
I just wanted to say this thread still delivers. Thanks for reposting some of the images. I followed these steps two years ago and it turned out great with the exception of the ultra expensive Gates "submersible" fuel hose (feed line). After a month it softened and ruptured. I could have had a defect, aged hose from old inventory, or it's not truly E10 compatible. At the time I should have done the copper tube support around the fuel line.

The second time I used a Racetronix fuel feed tube with success at a fraction of the cost, and is E85 compatible. There are various sizes available from their site. Burst pressure is some 200psi, and operating is 100psi. I'm running a continuous 75psi (Stage 3).

Prices range from $2.60 to $7.00 depending on length.

Here's what they look like:


And their website:
Racetronix - Fuel Feed - Tubes - Plastic



***Below is what I did in order to retain the stock 75psi pressure to the returnless Stage 3 fuel rail***
As we all know, the 75psi Stage 3 fuel canister/FPR-filter has been discontinued. As mentioned in a previous post, there are aftermarket replacement canister assemblies, but they are upwards of $900 or more. Even used Stage 3 canisters sell for $500 (why???). I did this primarily for future easy and cheap filter replacements.



I've mounted the regulator in the center of the vehicle behind the fuel tank, but in front of the crossmember. Don't freak about the gauge pressure, the vehicle has been off for 4 days.


I tucked the filter in the same vicinity of where the stock line attached to the Stage 3 FPR taking care to not stress the stock line. Notice the stock FPR was left in place, plugged, and not being used.



And finally the total cost parts list breakdown. Anytime you do fuel system items, cost adds up quick. But at least next time I need to replace the filter, it'll only cost me $12.

$352.89 If using Racetronix fuel tube
$371.34 If using Gates fuel hose


Modern Performance
https://www.modernperformance.com/
$99 Walbro 255 LPH High Flow Fuel Pump, 95-05 Neon Model Number: 221260

EBay
https://ebay.com
$6.99 1x -6 AN6 MALE to 3/8" FEMALE QUICK CONNECT FUEL RAIL LINE FITTING ADAPTER
$13.48 ($6.74ea) 2x Straight 6AN Female to 5/16" (8mm) Barb hose Adapter Fitting (**IF USING RACETRONIX FUEL TUBE**)

Summit Racing
https://www.summitracing.com
$9.04 ($4.52ea) 2x EAR-178009ERL 9/16 STAT-O-SEAL - PKG. OF 2
$9.94 ($4.97ea) 2x SUM-220637B -6 STRAIGHT BULKHEAD FLARE NIC
$7.94 ($3.97ea) 2x SUM-260690B TWIST-TITE -6 END STRAIGHT BLK (**IF USING GATES FUEL HOSE**)
$23.91 ($7.97ea) 3x FRA-495100-BL RADIUS FITTING O-RING BLK
$99.97 1x PFS-10685 FUEL INJECTION FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR


ANFittingsDirect
https://www.anfittingsdirect.com/
$20.94 ($3.49ea) 6x ANF001200 PTFE Braided Stainless Steel Lines, -6 AN
$29.97 ($9.99ea) 3x ANF001259 Stainless Steel Line 90° Adaptor, -6 AN
$9.99 1x ANF001352 Stainless Steel Line 180° Adaptor, -6 AN Black
$9.98 ($4.99ea) 2x ANF001253 Stainless Steel Line Straight Adaptor, -6 AN Black

Amazon
https://amazon.com
$12.68 1x Wix 33484 fuel filter

O'Reilly Auto Parts
https://www.oreillyauto.com
$30.99 1x Gates 27093 (**if NOT using Racetronix fuel tube**)

Racetronix
https://racetronix.biz
$7.00 1x FFT-8X500S Fuel Tube, 500x8mm, 5x100mm Sections, Dual-Wall, Conductive, Black (**if NOT using Gates fuel hose**)
 
#59 ·
I have a stage 3 kit. I wish the stage 3 FPR was still available. We can just throw in a walbro 255 and that's no problem. Cause the stg3 pump is a walbro 190lph. It's a direct replacement. And the canister is the exact same as any 2nd gen neon. Instead of taking my canister apart for the 1st time I went to a junk yard and at the yard I go to they take out all of the canisters and throw them in the trunk. So I went there and took apart a bunch so when I did mine it was easy and I didn't crack it and I k re what I was doing. I use a walbro 255 now but I still have my original stage 3 pump and a extra brand new one.
I also have a extra stage 3 FPR. However for some reason when I turn my key to ACC my pump turns on and my fuel pressure will climb but it won't hold and fall to zero. But when the car is running the fuel pressure holds completely fine. Even at WOT. the car starts up perfect. If u don't have a fuel pressure gauge you would never of known this. So I took it out and after looking long and hard I found probley the last brand new never used stage 3 fpr and put that in my car and it hold pressure just fine when the car is not running. Only reason I know this is because I have a AEM fuel pressure gauge. But like I said the car runs perfectly fine with it and I wouldn't of known this if I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge.
I wish they would make at least 1 more batch of a few hundred or so just for us stage 3 owners. I actually contacted the manufacturer a few yrs ago and they would do it if they had a order of $10k or more. Even if they sold for $100 each I would still buy one.
Does anyone know someone or have connections to the manufacturer of who made the stage 3 FPR's?
Pic's are of my extra stg3 FPR.
 

Attachments

#60 · (Edited)
I found this post as well. I do Wonder though how many people would still be interested in buying a new stage 3 fuel pressure regulator? Also would a stage 3 fuel pressure regulator benefit anybody else that doesn't have a stage 3 SRT4 or do they have to have the stage 3 fuel rail to even use this regulator?
I do know that you can still find new stage 3 fuel rails on the internet. I've seen new ones for sale also.
Put it this way.....they are easier to find the a stg3 FPR.
 
#61 ·
Yes, you need the S3 fuel rail so the demand regulator on the rail adjusts the pressure from 75PSI down to 58PSI and thence up to 75PSI depending on the boost reference.
The issue isn't the S3 fuel rail availability, it's where can we purchase a new 75PSI S3 FPR for the pump assembly.
This only if the one I have takes a shit...a spare would be extremely handy.
Otherwise, this bottleneck fix would be a viable alternative, not for power necessarily, but to keep the car running.
 
#62 ·
#64 ·
It would be nice if a vendor or 2 would work together and gets the stg3 FPR's. It's been a few years now since someone actually talked to someone at Mahle about this. I wonder if they would consider lowering the price. Trust me I've actually put the thought into my head about doing this and buying 150 FPR's. But it would cost me a lot more cause I'm in Canada. I would have to sell that all in USD funds and ask between $125-$150each but that's still a ton cheaper then going with a fuel return setup. You would either have to do a bigger pump (wally 255), get a normal fuel rail and bigger injectors and get at tuned
Or
Do a full fuel return setup.
Maybe some genders would buy a bunch at a time also if someone had a bunch. Maybe it's something to actually look into a little bit further. If I did it tho I would definitely need to make more then just a few hundred bux profit. And I got to also think on how long do I have to sit on these before they are all gone. I'm sure I would sell a few right away but enough to at least make my money back? I don't know about that
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top